Fine Food Hot Off the Grill

Some diners might be put off by Green Valley Grill’s location in a small business complex shared by clinics and other offices. Once the elevator doors open on the restaurant’s third floor lobby, however, the location seems like a good idea—the Grill feels like a well-kept dining secret that you are invited to enjoy.

When  I arrived with my friend, Michael, on Saturday night, the place was bustling, yet even without a reservation, there was no problem in securing a table. A spacious bar and lounge is adjacent to the dining room, where there is live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Windows placed between dining room and lounge, and a well-monitored system, keep music at a pleasant sound level for dining.

The menu was impressive, featuring a tempting variety of wood-grilled meats and seafood, including some interesting duets, like the Duck and Lamb Combo, or  Sweet Butter Poached Lobster Tails with Filet Mignon (the latter a special that evening). There is a nice selection of salads and pastas, including gnocchi. All entrees come with a choice of two sides: potatoes au gratin, roasted polenta, saffron basmati rice, tomato and fresh basil pasta, and sautéed vegetables. You’ll find an excellent selection of champagnes, red and white wines, and draft and bottled beer.

I enjoyed the modern, playful décor. One wall displayed black-and-white photographs of cutlery posed rather suggestively. Large lithographs of vintage  French and Italian restaurant ads were framed on another wall. White butcher paper covered our table, and a glass container of crayons was provided, in case we felt the urge to be creative.

After placing our order, the server brought some soft French bread, which we dipped in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Soon after, we received the appetizer, a plate heaped high with Onion Strings thinly sliced, batter-fried and dusted lightly with cayenne and salt. We finished every crumb. I’d like to try the Artichoke Crab Cakes and the Fig'n'Pig Crostini in the future.

As a starter, I had a simple salad of fresh greens and tomatoes with a vinaigrette. Our entrees, on large white platters, arrived after a brief wait. I had ordered two boneless pork chops marinated with honey, soy, lime and wasabi; they were topped with a generous dollop of pesto the color of dark pine needles, consisting of sesame, cilantro, chile and cashew nuts. For sides, I chose basmati rice and vegetables (broccoli and carrots) lightly sauteed in butter. The chops were lusciously tender with a smoky aftertaste that blended well with the marinade. The pesto was surprisingly light, subtly sweet and nutty. The flavors all combined to make a really pleasing meal.

Michael ‘s vegetable lasagna contained red bell peppers, eggplant, strips of portobello mushrooms and ricotta cheese, with a brightly piquant tomato sauce. The dish was crowned with a slice of parmesan-sprinkled polenta that was crisp on the outside, and soft within and accompanied with artichoke quarters. Michael found the meal “colorful, flavorful and rich.”

The restaurant’s manager, Carsten Cole, told me that , owned by Ray Rodriguez, has been operating for over 15 years. The experience shows in its attentive service (the best I have experienced in the Watsonville area) and creative approach to cooking and dining.

40 Penny Lane (off Green Valley Road).

Hours:  Mondays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m.  Saturdays, 5-9:30 p.m.

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